The Urwerk UR-105 ‘Raging Gold’ model is a classic that’s anything but classical.
Martin Frei, Urwerk’s co-founder and designer has confessed to being “a victim of the lure of gold,” announcing this unmistakably golden UR-105 ‘Raging Gold’ model.
“There’s always this little inner voice that reminds me how much I love this metal. Beyond the march of technology, changes in fashion, new functions, new materials; gold is always gold. It’s forever. It’s the metal that lights me up.”
The designer’s infatuation for the noblest of materials might however only be skin deep, given what you see is a more a shield of red gold, carved in an intriguing pattern that serves as the bezel on an otherwise titanium case.
According to Urwerk’s co-founder and master watchmaker Felix Baumgartner, the “Raging Gold” should not only be a pleasure to look at, but a pleasure to touch, the lines and the texture of the case harking back to the hobnail “Clou de Paris” motif that was popular in high-class watches.
Technically though, the UR-105 couldn’t be more contemporary, showcasing as it does Urwerk’s wandering hour mechanism in which each hour travels in turn across a 60-minute arc. A semi-crystalline polymer ‘mask’ decorated in traditional style hides the hours that have completed their 60-minute journey.
A hidden carousel carries the hours in groups of three on four satellite discs, hidden. It silently brings the right hour to the right place at the right time.
On the back of the UR-105, turbines control the self-winding system. Switch the lever to FULL and the winding rotor reacts to your slightest movement to wind the mainspring. In the RED (reduced) position, the rotor’s movements are dampened to avoid excessive tension in the mainspring. In the STOP position the self-winding mechanism is disengaged and the watch can be wound manually with the crown.
It’s all wonderful stuff for a watch that at 53mm by almost 40mm might catch the eye with its use of a traditional material, but is anything but old-school. Just 22 will be produced.
Our thoughts on the Urwerk ‘Raging Gold?’ Few watches are as big, bold or gloriously gold. It’s a classic that’s anything but classical.
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